The gateway to Africa is a dizzying mix of cultures. It’s been in the hands of various state powers, each building on thesense of internationalism in the city. The old medina sits alongside French colonial architecture and boulevards with a distinctly European feel. Before it was incorporated back into the Kingdom of Morocco, it became a go-to destination for writers, misfits, hedonists, spies, a place where anything went. It retains that bohemian atmosphere, offset by the historic medina and traditional Moroccan tropes, making it a fascinating cultural milieu.
Start as you mean to go on - with food of course. Head for Le Salon Bleu and make straight for the roof terrace: the views across the Straits of Giblraltar to one side and medina to the other are exquisite. There’s other rooftop eateries to pick from to, though this spot is well loved and beautiful looking from the outside. Thankfully the style is reflected in the food, which is honest and flavourful.
Head for the former Royal Palace and discover the history of Morocco in this recently refurbished museum. The architecture alone - dating back to the 17th century - is worth seeing, with intricate mosaics and a gorgeous garden showcasing the lavish side of Moorish style. Inside you’ll find treasures like the mosaic of Venus from Volubilis and statues, plus giant replica maps depicting scenes dating back to the Phoenicians.
Counterpoint Tangier’s internationalist qualities with a traditional walk through the medina of the port town. This is where the historic soul of the city comes to life. From the Grand Socco entrance, to the warren of alleyways and hidden lanes, Tangier’s medina is an inspired location for soaking up the culture of the city. Dip into the souks and tea rooms, a wonderful counterpoint to the post-colonial sprawl and European boulevards outside of the thick stone walls.
Tangier was a popular stomping ground of the American literary set, the Beatniks. You only need to sit in a French-style coffee house to be transported into the world of Kerouac, Burroughs and most famously Bowles, who seemingly paved the way for Tangier the beatnik summer destination. Not only that, but Tangier was the first port to open to post-revolutionary America. Head to the Tangier American Legation Museum, the only piece of US Historic Landmark not in the US, for a wild history on Moroccan - US relations. Oh, and it’s the perfect place to pick up a Bowles novel.
One of Tangier’s true joys is the diversity of scenes, the flash of something familiar and unfamiliar. This historic gateway to Africa marries Moorish and colonial, coast and bustling urbanity, all in a few steps of one another. Head for the beach, the French boulevards, dart between medina alleyways, and spie remnants of colonial life that transport you back to the ‘30s. Style, grandeur, old-world charms: they’re all here, like something from Wes Anderson, and are utterly addictive.
When all the strolling is done, relax at Cafe Hafa for some of the best views in town. This Tangier stalwart has been loved by locals and visitors alike since 1921. With a set of terraces folding down the cliffside towards the coast, this really is an exquisite spot for a sundowner tea or bite to eat. Burroughs and Bowles, the Beatles and the Stones did the same, relishing the impeccable views across Tangier’s bay.
You and your travel partner will spend four nights at the Palais Mirage d’Atlas, a sophisticated resort with boho vibes just a stone’s throw from bustling Marrakech. With £500 for travel expenses and transfers to and from the airport, all you need to worry about is how best to indulge in the luxe trappings of this stylish resort.
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