Naples is one of the most exciting cities in Europe. It’s culturally unique, full of its own quirks, eccentricities, and fierce local pride. It can be unforgiving to those that don’t embrace its charms; this guide is set to show you the different faces of Naples, where incredible food, fascinating history and Neapolitan flair will seduce those who are bonafide culture seekers. Head out into the medieval heart of the city, where the narrowest of streets still harbour artisan workshops and worn-in bars, with more shrines and churches than you could ever hope to count. Naples is the most Catholic of cities in terms of places to worship; this city-wide devotion leads down some curious roads, from votives to cults, and adds to the cultural riches of its identity.
Head for the down-to-earth Quartieri Spagnoli, dodging scooters and the judging eyes of nonnas on balconies, and eat: eat pizza, of course - this is the home of it after all - and eat wood-fired Parmigiana di Melanzane; eat it with everything, eat it with Ragù Napoletano, and don’t skimp on an unhealthy assortment of fried goods (pizza fritta - fried pizza - being a deceptively delicious must try). Don’t ignore the famous sweet treats like Sfogliatella from equally famous places like Scaturchio. Do all of this and you might start seeing what all the fuss is about. This is an impassioned city that doesn’t do things by halves; it’s all or nothing, and that’s what makes it so addictive.
Your first foray into the many Neapolitan cultural quirks is this bustling street in the centre of the city’s old town. This is the street of the Nativity, where year-round you can buy handcrafted figurines for your own yuletide display - which of course you have, don’t you? Caricatures are increasingly popular, and each figure is made the traditional way by local artisans.
One of Naples’ most enchanting qualities lies in its vertiginous cityscape, where high rises pile atop each other from coast to mountain. The best way to get to grips with this unique layout is to climb up to Vomero, the highest neighbourhood in Naples. Along the way you’ll see typical Neapolitan living, from the Nonna flats to the stupendously steep streets that fall down to the Spanish Quarter.
This collection of narrow streets is packed with restaurants and bars, and is the go-to neighbourhood for indulging in the authentic Neapolitan way of doing things. Sit at any one of the numerous and generally-excellent restaurants, with scooters whizzing past at alarming speed, washing lines as far as the eye can see, and the odd basket being pulled up to a lofty balcony to supply nonna with her groceries. Heaven.
This stalwart trio of cafes are a throwback to mid-century style, where formica rules and the coffee is a Neapolitan favourite. First opened in the ‘60s by Samuele Passalacqua, he was quick to import many varieties of bean and concoct his own signature blends. Locals swear by them. Head inside, take a ticket, and sip down the culture of the city, espresso by espresso.
The 15th-century facade of this church may seem a little plain, yet inside you’ll find one of the city’s best examples of Neapolitan Baroque style. The ornate interior is filled with opulent touches, yet even more impressive is the chapel dedicated to beloved local saint Giuseppe Moscati. The rooms are filled wall-to-wall with silver votives (a particularly Neapolitan tradition), plus the galleried stores of countless early-Christian relics.
Head for this bustling market in the down-to-earth Quartieri Spagnoli. You’ll find a notably locals’ market, with the odd cheap clothes’ stall and green grocers, plus a wonderful assortment of fishmongers, butchers and more. Plenty of the stalls offer small bites made with their produce, be it freshly fried calamari or typical Neapolitan street food like fried vegetables.
This small island just off the coast of Naples’ well-heeled Posillipo neighbourhood is a place filled with intrigue and mystery. Though scenic and beautiful, it's a scene imbued with dark goings on. The villa on the island has changed hands multiple times, and each new owner has had some form of tragedy strike. It’s quite the list, be sure to research it. The snorkelling round here is excellent however, with Roman ruins lurking underneath the waters.
Spiritually, Naples has always done things differently. In 1638, this church was built to house the unnamed and unfortunate dead. The plague a few years later exacerbated the problem, filling the underground crypt with bones and skulls. A death cult, which believed those souls to be stuck in purgatory, sprang up to care for the skulls, pray to them, and offer them gifts in return for favours. Though the practice was suppressed by the Catholic church, it remains to this day.
Just a mile from the other death cult church is this unassuming chapel. Built in the 14th century, its crypt later became a hub for Naples’ Death Cult, who prayed to the skulls of the dead, believing them to be conduits to heaven. This one in particular has a rather peculiar ‘eared’ skull, which still draws members of the cult believing the ears to listen closely to their prayers.
Arguably the most famous pizza place in Naples, Pizzeria da Michele has been perfecting Neapolitan pizza since 1870. It’s one of the oldest, and certainly the one with the smallest menu. You’ll only find marinara and margherita, at a handsome price; and though the outside may be heaving with hungry diners, a ticketing system makes ordering surprisingly rapid.
Quite possibly the finest accompaniment to beer ever made, pizza fritta is a uniquely Neapolitan dish, borne out of shortages during WWII. Take a normal pizza, fold it, and rather than bake it in a pizza oven, fry it until the dough turns wonderfully crispy. Isabella De Cham has mastered the art, with delicious fillings made from only the finest local produce. It is, dare we say, surprisingly lighter than expected, and a classic taste of Neapolitan goodness.
Nestled in the buzzing Spanish Quarter, this classic trattoria offers a no-frills introduction to classic Neapolitan cuisine.
In the corner of Torretta market is this local gem, a lunchtime spot that cooks up, counter style, whatever looks good in the market. Not to be missed.
Convivial is too tame a term for this bustling institution. The staff are clearly having a brilliant time, and so should you, with classic Neapolitan dishes.
Along Italy’s northwestern coast is Liguria, famed for its Riviera. This is the glitzy starlet of the country’s coastline, where dramatic cliffs and irresistible fishing villages have long been a draw for stylish travellers. Though the likes of Cinque Terre are well-travelled, there are still hidden gems to uncover, to beat the tourist trappings. Similarly, there’s a clutch of small towns and villages along the coastline that boast similar beauty, oft overlooked for the more famous five villages. Discover these destinations here, for an authentic experience of Liguria.
Read guideDiscover the road from Calabria to Sicily. This itinerary follows the route of our film with singer-songwriter Jack Savoretti. We’ve added a few extra locations so you can see the best of this corner of Italy, with restaurant recommendations and hidden gems, plus in-the-know tips so you can indulge in an authentic side of this country…
Read guideAt the heel of Italy is this gorgeous coastal region, famed for sandy beaches, remarkable sea grottoes, and beautiful historic towns. Sink into Puglian charms, with the best places to eat, lesser-known coastal picks, and all the insights you need to have the most authentic getaway in this southern corner of Italy.
Read guideNew BIRRA MORETTI
Discover the new BIRRA MORETTI Sale Di Mare, an unfiltered premium lager with a hint of Italian sea salt. Perfectly paired to the flavour and style of the Italian coast, this is full-flavoured refreshment with every sip.
Find out moreThe most vivid memories of my trips to the Amalfi Coast and the Bay of Naples aren't just about the sights, but the tastes. A slice of delizia al limone devoured under a leafy lemon pergola in Positano. People-watching at Pansa café in Amalfi's main square, a flaky sfogliatella riccia on the table. A fresh cornetto ischitano for breakfast in Ischia. The sour taste of a fresh squeezed lemonade in Ravello. Food is never just food here, it’s culture, memory, and one of the best ways to discover the true essence of this enchanting yet complex land.
When in Naples, you can’t miss an underground tour of the city, a journey through history and folklore, followed by a pizza a portafoglio (a wallet-shaped fried pizza) at the legendary Pizzeria Di Matteo - It made my heart (and stomach) sing! If you're visiting Ischia between April and October, get lost in the lush vegetation and the intense fragrance of flowers in Giardini La Mortella, created and developed by English composer William Walton's wife Susana. A frittella di alghe (a tiny seaweed doughnut) and a glass of wine at sunset is the most traditional way to end the day here!
From Ischia, a quick ferry ride whisks you to Procida. The view of colourful houses from Terra Murata, the island's highest point, is breathtaking (and worth the climb!). I recharged with a scoop of zesty mandarin gelato by the sea – a perfect way to cool down and soak in the scenery. I highly recommend you do the same!
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