Cefalù is the perfect antidote to busier Palermo. You’ll get Sicilian charm by the bucketload, but on a more bite size scale that feels a more distilled version of all the things to love about Sicily. It has that timeless grandeur that the Italians do so well, with a well-preserved old town filled with all the wanted trappings of Italian towns - that is, great restaurants, golden-hour aperitivo in grand piazzas, bustling espresso bars and postcard-perfect scenes everywhere you look.
The beach here is one of Sicily’s best. Golden sands and clear waters are loved by locals and visitors alike, backdropped by the whitewashed buildings and terracotta roofs. It’s a rustic scene, one immortalised in Tornatore’s iconic film Cinema Paradiso. It doesn’t stop there though: Cefalù also has some of the finest historical architecture in Sicily, where the unique culture of the island is evident in the Arab-Norman styles, Moorish influences and Baroque drama. All of this, laid out between a huge rock and the sea, makes Cefalù a real treat to look at. Pair that with great food and vibrant cultural experiences, and you’ll easily fall for this gorgeous town’s charms.
Everything in Cefalù centres around this magnificent cathedral. It has stood for centuries as the spiritual, social and cultural hub for all of Cefalù, and is one of Sicily’s finest examples of Arab-Norman architecture. Inside, the unique arches and lofty heights all lead the eye to the magnificent Byzantine mosaic of Cristo Pantocratore in the apse, a stunning gilded Christ overlooking worshippers. Take the tower tour for a remarkably close glimpse at the work, and excellent views over the town from this 12th century marvel.
Cefalù’s premiere beach is a popular crescent sliver that fills with sunseekers in the summer months. The sands are soft and white, the waters clear and inviting. With the beautiful backdrop of Cefalù, it’s one of Sicily’s most popular stretches of sand.
The large rock that overshadows much of the town offers, perhaps unsurprisingly, some of the finest views in the area. Though the summer heat can make it a trickier climb (plenty of water and good shoes are vital), the route up is only around 45 minutes for confident walkers. It starts with a long staircase, which quickly turns into a winding and craggy path. At the very top there’s the ruins of the old Norman fortress and those delightful views over the town, its crescent beach, and the shimmering waters.
On your ascent to the top of La Rocca, don’t miss this worthy stop off. On the side of the mountainside lies a megalithic structure that’s around 2,900 years old. The Temple of Diana is from the 9th century BC, with a later Greek modernisation around the 5th and 2nd century. Its original purpose is unclear, though clearly the lookout point was advantageous strategically and spiritually. It’s a uniquely romantic sight, imbued with a timelessness that accompanies the brilliant views over Cefalù.
Looking for somewhere to really indulge in Italian spirit? Head for this quainter piazza for your aperitivo, where golden hour brings out the pink and terracotta hues of the old town architecture, accented by a smattering of green shrubbery and trees. It’s an evocative scene, perfectly paired with a spritz and a plateful of Sicilian snacks. Salute!
It’s quite a feat to make gelato even more tempting than it already is, but here you go. Sicilians have once again outdone themselves, scooping indulgent gelato into a brioche bun, of all things. Yes, it sounds like a heart attack, but you’re on holiday and you deserve it. Oh, wait - there’s more. It’s a typical breakfast food. 1 - 0 to the Sicilians. Cefalù has plenty of gelateria, and nearly all are highly regarded.
Discover the private collection of the eponymous baron, who amassed a curious collection of art and historic artefacts. From ancient Greek vases to Arab pottery, there’s plenty that most agree isn’t anywhere near as interesting as the collection’s most prized possession: The Portrait of the Unknown Man. It’s the most famous Renaissance smile, second only to the Mona Lisa.
If you’re looking for a beach away from the buzz of the town, Caldura beach is a picturesque choice. It’s just a 20-minute walk along the coast, but is a world away from the town beach. The coastline here is craggy and green, a notably verdant backdrop for your beach day. The rocks are perfect for bombing into the water.
Just 6 km east of Cefalù lies the tiny village of Sant Ambrogio. It’s the kind of place where there’s just one of all the things you need; only a tiny beach, one osteria, one trattoria, and one magnificent view that sweeps the cliffside lanes of the village. Come here for an experience of rustic Sicilian life, where the sea meets vineyards and orchards.
In Cefalù’s hinterland lies this incredible stretch of parkland, joining the coast to the mountains of Sicily. The biodiversity is rich; with Cefalù as your gateway, there’s a whole wilderness to explore, just a stone’s throw from the town. The National Park is also dotted with irresistible villages, where life is lived differently. A perfect adventure from Cefalù.
This diminutive wine bar has some of the best seats in the house. Picture the scene: a romantic table for two, framed by an arch, overlooking the lapping waves and harbour hubbub of Cefalù. And it’s not just about the views either: the wine is exquisite, and the aperitivo to-die-for. They’ve really got something right here. What’s more, much of the hyperlocal produce, including the wine, is available for purchase.
It’s smart, it’s historic, it’s family run - expect elevated Sicilian dining delivered with flair in this 16th-century, old town gem.
This popular restaurant serves up classic Sicilian fare with a focus on fresh seafood. Dishes are delivered with flair, for a fresh take on traditional cooking.
A little out the way, this stalwart snack shop has been serving up Sicilian street food since the ‘70s. It may not be fine dining, but nothing beats a bag of arancini for your beach day - lauded as the best in Italy, no less.
Along Italy’s northwestern coast is Liguria, famed for its Riviera. This is the glitzy starlet of the country’s coastline, where dramatic cliffs and irresistible fishing villages have long been a draw for stylish travellers. Though the likes of Cinque Terre are well-travelled, there are still hidden gems to uncover, to beat the tourist trappings. Similarly, there’s a clutch of small towns and villages along the coastline that boast similar beauty, oft overlooked for the more famous five villages. Discover these destinations here, for an authentic experience of Liguria.
Read guideFrom bonafide classics like the Amalfi Coast and Naples, to lesser-known gems that should not be missed, discover your guide to the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Even in the more popular destinations there’s myriad places you need to explore, the kind of places where locals go, where real Italian experiences await.
Read guideAt the heel of Italy is this gorgeous coastal region, famed for sandy beaches, remarkable sea grottoes, and beautiful historic towns. Sink into Puglian charms, with the best places to eat, lesser-known coastal picks, and all the insights you need to have the most authentic getaway in this southern corner of Italy.
Read guideNew BIRRA MORETTI
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