The Baroque heart of Syracuse, Ortigia is a ravishing place and was at one time a rival to classical Athens’ grandeur. It’s a place of myths and legends, birthplace of Artemis and home of Calypso, filled with ancient Greek and Roman amphitheatres, temples and more. It’s been fought over, rebuilt and championed countless times, with each conquering force adding to the unique artistic tapestry of the place. Crossing over the two small bridges from Syracuse is like stepping back in time, with an effortless style sprawling throughout the mile-long island.
Where else can you dip into an ancient ruin, slosh about in turquoise waters, get your fix of Renaissance art and culture, and dive into the unique culinary delights of Sicily, all in an easy day? Kick back in the piazzas, soak up the golden hues of the magnificent UNESCO-listed architecture, and head for a rather refined pocket of Sicily…
Ortigia is a well-heeled type of place. Soak in the golden hues of the Baroque buildings and marvel at the grand piazzas, where espresso and spritz clatter on the tables of outdoor terraces, and the people-watching is just superb. There’s a joy in exploring this old town, winding from the mythical Fountain of Arethusa to the Piazza del Duomo, a gleaming masterpiece of Baroque town planning.
Ortigia retains a remarkable Renaissance flair, both in the palaces that dominate its townscape, and the artworks adorning its grand churches and art galleries. Head for the matriarch, the Duomo di Siracusa. It’s a picture book of Ortigia’s history, incorporating the Doric columns of the ancient Greek Temple, revealing the old Norman mosaic work, and featuring the lofty Baroque facade (it was even used as a mosque, for a time). Nearby is the Church of Santa Lucia Alla Badia, which is home to Sicily’s only Caravaggio. Finally, make for Palazzo Bellomo Museum, which houses rare artworks from the Byzantine period up to the pre-modern.
Discover the ancient foundations of Syracuse. The most remarkable and visitable spot is the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis, just over on the mainland. The highlight is the vast 5th-century BC Greek theatre, though other remarkable Roman-period amphitheatres and temples also fill the space. Back in Ortigia, don’t miss the Temple of Apollo, one of the first temples the Greeks built in Sicily.
Though Ortigia isn’t the biggest beach destination on Sicily’s coast, taking to the water still offers some gorgeous experiences. There is a small, pebbled beach in the town - Spiaggia di Cala Rossa, with Arenella, Fontane Bianche or Vendicari Nature Reserve reachable by car. Best though is a boat trip, so you can soak up the beautiful views of Ortigia from the sea, and explore the many sea grottoes that hide around the island.
Head for Mercato di Ortigia to get your fill of local tastes and artisanal products. You’ll find all manner of stalls selling fresh fruits, vegetables, fish and more, with piles of spices and blends to boot. You can also grab a few local specialties to take home, including pistachios from Bronte, almonds from Avola, sun-dried tomatoes from Pachino and capers from Pantelleria.
Authentic Sicilian dishes put together with a French sensibility. There’s just a handful of tables and it is wildly popular. Book ahead.
Okay so this one’s a curveball, but this vegan restaurant is one of the highest regarded places to eat on the island. Go vegan for the day.
Family run, packed with bucket-loads of charm and only the freshest seafood. If you’re here for fish, don’t miss this spot.
Along Italy’s northwestern coast is Liguria, famed for its Riviera. This is the glitzy starlet of the country’s coastline, where dramatic cliffs and irresistible fishing villages have long been a draw for stylish travellers. Though the likes of Cinque Terre are well-travelled, there are still hidden gems to uncover, to beat the tourist trappings. Similarly, there’s a clutch of small towns and villages along the coastline that boast similar beauty, oft overlooked for the more famous five villages. Discover these destinations here, for an authentic experience of Liguria.
Read guideFrom bonafide classics like the Amalfi Coast and Naples, to lesser-known gems that should not be missed, discover your guide to the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Even in the more popular destinations there’s myriad places you need to explore, the kind of places where locals go, where real Italian experiences await.
Read guideAt the heel of Italy is this gorgeous coastal region, famed for sandy beaches, remarkable sea grottoes, and beautiful historic towns. Sink into Puglian charms, with the best places to eat, lesser-known coastal picks, and all the insights you need to have the most authentic getaway in this southern corner of Italy.
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