Once a vital trading outpost for the island, Trapani is a wonderfully historic and charming coastal town that avoids the more touristy trappings of Sicily’s larger destinations. This is very much a locals kind of place with a bustling port, though don’t mistake it for not having plenty to indulge in as a traveller. There’s a variety of neighbourhoods to explore, from those that exude classic Italian charms to those that embody the Arab influence present throughout Sicily.
It’s also a characteristically foodie place. The influence of the coast is evident in the salt pans that fringe the town, the unique dishes that authentic Trapani restaurants offer, and the legacy of tuna processing that stretches back to the Phoenicians. Beyond the excellent dining, Trapani is also famed for its historic coral trade, and being the jumping off point for excursions to the Egadi Islands. Couple this with grand architecture, a pretty coastline, and a whole mountain to explore nearby, and you’ll soon experience the diversity that Trapani offers.
Explore Trapani's rich historic tapestry. Visit the medieval Castello di Terra and the iconic 17th century watchtower, Torre di Ligny. Don't miss the Baroque architecture of the Chiesa del Purgatorio and the elaborate decorations of the Santuario dell'Annunziata. For your dose of art, head to Museo Pepoli, set in the beautiful 14th-century cloisters of the Carmelite Monastery. The collection includes historic Trapani arts and crafts, in particular the famous coral carvings that the town was once known for.
As a port town, fishing is the mainstay of life in Trapani. With a history stretching back centuries, see it for yourself at the Old Town Fish Market. Here, fishermen display their wares in a scene that hasn’t changed for many years. It’s a wonderful glimpse into traditional Sicilian life, and though you may not walk away with a tuna or swordfish, it’s a vibrant experience that only makes eating the day’s catch in one of many seafood restaurants all the more enjoyable.
South of Trapani lies this beguiling coastal road. Why beguiling? It’s home to a tradition as old as the Phoenicians, a transformed shoreline of salt piles and rectangular, water-logged pans. Saline della Laguna should be your stop, a cultural centre with its 500-year-old windmill. Here, you can taste the local salt, flavoured with coriander, juniper and more, with chunks of bread, olive oil, and fruits. Time it right and watch the salt harvest - it’s a sight steeped in history.
A little excursion inland will see you climbing the lofty heights of Erice. As you reach a startling 750m elevation, a walled medieval town clings to the side of the mountain. Here, you’ll get unrivalled views across Trapani, with valleys rolling out to the sea. Tear yourself away from the views and there’s a 12th century village and fortress to explore, with an inescapable charm.
Here’s a dish that you may struggle to believe is Italian. Trapani has always had very close ties to North Africa, and this local dish demonstrates the legacy of the history, trade and migration in the town. Head to one of the many seafood trattorias in Trapani and try this iconic feast, where pillowy couscous is served with seafood like clams, mussels and scampi. Delicious!
Just honest Trapanese dishes, cooked to perfection, in a no-frills setting. If you’re here for great food and not much more, this is the place.
This central spot tows the line between restaurant and street food stop, where a dizzying assortment of fresh seafood is served quickly and in shareable style.
Hidden down a small lane, this charming restaurant exemplifies the best of Italian eating - great, unpretentious, and refined food.
Along Italy’s northwestern coast is Liguria, famed for its Riviera. This is the glitzy starlet of the country’s coastline, where dramatic cliffs and irresistible fishing villages have long been a draw for stylish travellers. Though the likes of Cinque Terre are well-travelled, there are still hidden gems to uncover, to beat the tourist trappings. Similarly, there’s a clutch of small towns and villages along the coastline that boast similar beauty, oft overlooked for the more famous five villages. Discover these destinations here, for an authentic experience of Liguria.
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