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Cinque Terre

One of Italy’s most renowned bucket-list destinations, this clutch of coastal villages epitomises the love affair most travellers have with Italy’s coast. The famous five cling to the rocky and vertiginous coastline of Italy’s Riviera, famously painted in pastel hues with drop-dead gorgeous sights at every turn. Unsurprisingly, they are no secret; their charm is their curse, their inaccessibility and petite size struggling with the many eager travellers who want their own glimpse at their ineffable beauty. Thus, a modicum of responsible tourism is a must.

Off-season visits promise the best experience, away from the thronging crowds. The rewards are great. Take a kayak to the sea (where the best vistas of Cinque Terre live), take to the trails, stay in one of the neighbouring - and no-less pretty - towns, use the fantastic rail network; it all makes for a remarkable experience. Here are tips and suggestions that don’t include the famous five villages; rather, these lesser-known ideas are here to complement your escape to one of Italy’s bonafide starlets, and to ensure your own adventures don’t upset the fragile eco-system of this deservedly bucket-list destination.

Hiking Trails

Easily the best way to see this unique national park is by exploring the hiking trails that connect the five famous villages. They range in length and gradient, with some being quite the challenge, but the rewards are plentiful. The Blue Trail is the best known, directly connecting the towns, whilst the High Path is the toughest, with astounding panorama across the sea, cliffs and vineyards. Be aware some routes require a Cinque Terre Card.

Kayaking

Though plenty of ferries connect the towns along the Ligurian coast, the best way to soak up the pretty vistas and pastel townscapes is from a sea kayak. Take a gentle paddle in and out of the coves and beaches, past rock formations and sea caves, and indulge in the beguiling beauty of the place. There are several operators along the coastline, with Monterosso al Mare Bay a popular location to start in.

Vineyards & Tastings

The viticulture of Cinque Terre is fantastically unique, a daring and artisanal undertaking that involves carving terraces into the steep cliffs and cultivating grapes under quite extraordinary circumstances. Steep and rocky, any maintenance to the vines is all done by hand; it’s no surprise the number of vintners is dwindling, though pockets of this old craft remain. Join a vineyard tour for the most involved experience, or sample the two DOC wines at reputable enotecas along the coast.

Via dell’Amore

After a long battle against landslides and crashing waves, this iconic path between Riomaggiore and Manarola is finally set to reopen in 2024 after huge investment and restoration. The trail is a testament to the unique community spirit of Cinque Terre; it was built by villagers of both towns in 1920, a joint project that required enormous effort and perseverance. The path will be ticketed on its launch, to avoid over tourism and ensure all can enjoy the beauty of this famous trail.

Levanto

As ever in remarkably popular places, a place to stay can be nigh impossible to find. With Cinque Terre’s excellent public transport infrastructure, there are plenty of local Ligurian options to pick from and Levanto is high on the list. Make it your base for your travels, and be rewarded with a rare sandy beach, pretty old town and great connections to Cinque Terre. You can even hike there from here.

Prevo

Between Corniglia and Vernazza, high on the Blue Path, is this diminutive hamlet. There’s barely much of anything here, bar the quite spectacular views across cliff and ocean. Thankfully, there is a single bar where you can refresh mid-hike and soak up the glorious vistas, pinching yourself that these tiny places exist to this day.

Nessun Dorma

Head to this coveted restaurant bar for some of the finest views in Cinque Terre. Relaxed and low-key, sample local wines and simple platters of aperitivo. The showstopper is the terrace, which peers over the irresistibly pretty village of Manarola and across the sea. By some modern miracle, the spot has its own app through which you can digitally queue for a table on the terrace.

Cycle routes

Though Cinque Terre is renowned for its vertiginous landscape, there are a few forgiving opportunities for a two-wheeled tour of the coast. The best-known route is north of the iconic villages, between Levanto and Framura. A flat, smooth, dedicated cycling path - built over a disused train line - soaks up the typically beautiful coastal views of the Italian Riviera. Bike hire is available for next to nothing. Make a day of it with a swim and lunch stop in Bonassola en route.

Porto Venere

Every bit as pretty as the villages of Cinque Terre, Porto Venere is a worthy stop that is often overlooked for its famous neighbours. The best view is from a boat entering the harbour; this small town connects the Riviera’s islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto. Here you’ll spy the gothic castle, which shoulders the pretty pastel townhouses that front the harbour. Don’t miss La Grotta Byron, a marine-life-rich sea cave that enraptured the eponymous poet.

Palmaria Island

This, the largest of the Riviera’s islands, is somewhat of an oasis away from the bustle of Cinque Terre. Take the short ferry ride to this pretty rock, which just 50 residents call home. You’ll be greeted by steep sea cliffs, pretty coves and rocky beaches, with well-maintained hiking trails that crisscross the island. It has an untouched quality to it, best explored via the trails, though you’d be forgiven for pitching a spot on the beaches and lounging the day away.

BIRRA MORETTI recom­mended

Canneto beach

This secluded spot is one of the most beautiful beaches along Cinque Terre’s coast. Only reachable by boat from Riomaggiore, there’s a wonderfully untamed quality to it. Boat hire is possible in Riomaggiore’s harbour, with a guide. The beach itself is small and serene, with its own waterfall. For extra points, include nearby Fossola Beach too. Consider a sunset arrival, with a pack of BIRRA MORETTI Sale Di Mare of course, for the perfect sundowner experience.

Where to eat...

Dau Cila

Every bit picture perfect, Dau Cila is nestled into the tiny harbourside of Riomaggiore. Akin to a film set, with fresh catches of the day.

Trattoria dal Billy

A favourite in the higher climes of Manarola, expect some of the best seafood in Cinque Terre with sublime terrace views to boot.

Belforte

A stalwart eatery in Vernazza, Belforte has been serving up classic coastal deliciousness for over 50 years, from its unique location in the town’s old castle.

Imperia
Laigueglia & Alassio
Noli
Lerici & Tellaro
Sestri Levante

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