This most photogenic of places is a bonafide icon, the instantly recognisable blue pearl of Morocco. Sprawled under the slumping shoulders of the Rif mountains, this bright azure medina is a warren of technicolour alleyways. There’s no great list of things to do, but therein lies the charm. Wander the sloping streets and delight at the beauty of the place. You’ll find good, honest eateries and handmade crafts. Head to the now-restored casbah for enviable views over the city.
Start your day by immersing yourself in the heart of Chefchaouen’s medina. The town's defining feature is the swathes of blue painted on to every part of the buildings and walls. The origins are disputed; most agree the blue had something to do with the historic Jewish population of the town, the blue being a significant spiritual colour. However, this is remembered as only appearing in the mellah, and it wasn’t until the Jewish community had left Chefchaouen that the colour spread across town. Wander through the medina's labyrinthine streets, snapping photos of blue doors, windows, and staircases framed by vibrant flowers - it really is a photographer’s dream. You’ll pass by quaint cafes and artisan shops selling handmade wool garments, woven blankets, and local goat’s cheese.
At the center of the medina lies the Kasbah, a restored 15th-century fortress built by Moulay Ali Ben Rachid to defend against Portuguese invasions. Step into this historical site to explore its small but charming ethnographic museum. Inside, you’ll find traditional Rifian artifacts, including musical instruments, pottery, and clothing, as well as a beautiful Andalusian-style garden in the courtyard. Climb the kasbah’s tower for panoramic views of Chefchaouen’s blue expanse and the surrounding Rif mountains.
After a morning of exploration, take a break in Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the medina’s main square. It’s the perfect spot to sit in a café, enjoy a mint tea, and watch the town come alive. Surrounded by the red walls of the kasbah And the town’s largest mosque - the Great Mosque - this lively plaza is where local life centres. Many of the restaurants here serve tagines and other Moroccan staples, though for a lighter (ish) bite, try the local goat’s cheese with bread.
A short walk uphill from the medina will take you to Ras El Maa, a small waterfall and the town’s main water source. Locals gather here to wash clothes, and you’ll see women beating rugs against the rocks. The cool water and shady trees offer a refreshing break from the warm sun, and you’ll find a few small stalls selling fresh juices or snacks. From here, you can continue walking up into the hills for better views of Chefchaouen, the cascading waterfall, and the rugged Rif Mountains.
For the best views of Chefchaouen at sunset, head for the Spanish Mosque, a short 20-30 minute walk from the medina. Built by the Spanish in the 1920s, the site fell into somewhat disrepair, but is slowly being revitalised, likely owing to its popularity as a viewpoint over the town. The trek is gentle and worth every step as you watch the sun dip behind the mountains, casting a golden glow over the medina’s sea of blue. Bring a light jacket, as it can get cool up here in the evening.
One of Chefchaouen’s obvious charms lies in its vertiginous, sprawling landscape. This pretty backdrop can also accompany your dinner plans, as a number of eateries have pretty terraces with views across the town. Try Bab Ssour for a traditional experience, or Morisco if you want to sit above the main square. For a more immersive experience, Cafe Clock is a favourite, with a roster of cultural events and cookery how-to’s.
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