The oldest of the Imperial Cities, Fes was once the cultural and spiritual powerhouse of Morocco. It attracted scholars, astronomers and theologians, crafted palaces and public buildings designed by master artisans - the legacy lives on, not just in the myriad architectural gems, but in the cultural capital and milieu of style that enchants visitors to this day.
For your first foray into Fes’s intellectual legacy, make for theological college of Medersa Bou Inania. Founded in the 14th century, it’s one of the most striking pieces of architecture in the city. Through impressive brass doors, enter into the courtyard, where intricate zellij tilework complements the use of outdoor space and light. Cedar mashrabiyas (lattice screens) finish the scene, where rooms splinter off and once hosted the finest Islamic intellectuals. Considering all the finery, it’s easy to see how important this place of education was for the city.
Arguably one of the most iconic sights in Fes, these historic tanneries are a sight - and smell - to behold. Dating back to the 16th century, these are the oldest in the city, and though there was some renovation work done, they still capture the age-old tradition in all its medieval flair. The best (and only) views are available through the leather goods shops, which have balcony vantage points at their rear. In the morning, the tanneries are filled with brightly coloured dyes, as craftspeople work tirelessly to produce exquisite leather pieces.
Like the other imperial cities, Fes’s medina is steeped in centuries of history and culture, and remains to this day the busting heart of the city. It’s wonderfully medieval layout and architecture is set to beguile visitors, and not only because of its sheer scale - it is, after all, the largest car-free urban space in the world. Dip into vibrant souks and haggle over traditional leather goods, technicolour pyramids of spices, all the glorious trappings of these timeless markets. Don’t miss highlights like Kairaouine, the oldest university in the world, and the Royal Palace.
Fes’s historic Jewish Quarter - Morocco’s first - was home to a thriving community as early as the 15th century. Though many jews left the area over the centuries, their legacy lives on. The architecture is notably different to that of the medina - open balconies peer over the district’s main street, Rue des Mérinides, and if you look closely you’ll still spot the mezuzot that grace the doorframes of jewish homes. Other signs of this history include the Ben Danan Synagogue, a beautiful 17th-century building with intricate tilework, and the Jewish Cemetery, where a sea of bright white tombs stand as a stoic reminder of the city’s Jewish heritage.
There’s a great selection of traditional places to eat in Fes, with none more typical than the restaurants tucked into the medina’s many riads. Dar Attajalli is perfect for tagine and great views across the medina, whereas Palais Amani stands out as the most opulent and romantic. L'Amandier Palais Faraj similarly offers exquisite views and a chic atmosphere, alongside traditional Fassi cuisine. Riad Rcif is the heritage choice, set in a riad with 600 years of history.
Take a memorable glimpse of golden hour across medina and city from the best viewpoint in Fes: the Merenid Tombs. These hilltop ruins, which were the final resting place of sultans and officials of the Merenid Dynasty, are perfectly positioned for one of the finest sunsets in Morocco. Peer over the vast medina, as the sun sinks over Fes.
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